Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
